IBIRAPUERA AND OTHER PARKS IN SÃO PAULO

If you ask someone in São Paulo which is the best park in town, you will probably hear the name Ibirapuera (the weird name comes from the original indigenous language and means ‘rotten wood’).

So yes, Ibirapuera is one of the largest parks in São Paulo, and it was chosen the 8^th best park in the world by a recent survey conducted by Tripadvisor. SEE MAP
 

Aerial view of the park

Practical info:

The park is open from 5am to midnight.

Pedestrians may get into the park via gates 2, 3, 4, 6, 7A and 10.

 

The park is home to several museums, such as the Museum of Modern Art, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Afro Brazilian Museum; it also owns two major exhibition spaces, the OCA and the Bienal Building. The park has a large lake, a plant nursery and an auditorium, designed by Oscar Niemeyer (as many other of its buildings) where concerts are held regularly.

Ok, so let’s say you want to go there… unless you are staying nearby, there are no subway stations nearby and it’s not within easy reach from the center of São Paulo. The best suggestion is to take a bus. Check on this website the bus lines (numbers and names)  that get to the park, and see which one runs next to where you are: http://www.parqueibirapuera.org/como-chegar/

Other nice parks in São Paulo are:

- Parque Trianon – easy to reach, in front of the Trianon/MASP subway station, right on Avenida Paulista

- Parque da Água Branca – near the Barra Funda subway station/bus terminal


- Parque da Juventude – near the Carandiru subway station, the park occasionally hosts music concerts

- Parque do Povo and Parque Villa Lobos – reachable by train using Line 9 – Esmeralda –

 

Souvenirs from São Paulo - Where to find

São Paulo is not a touristy city, so you will not come across a souvenir shop on every corner. Actually you may want to buy a souvenir after all, no matter how kitsch it might be, and not find anything. So I’ll give you some suggestions in case you want to make the effort to take something back home.

Two arts and crafts markets that are usually recommended to tourists are the ones that are held on Praça da República (held during the day on Fridays and Saturdays), which is easy to reach with the subway (Red and Yellow Lines, República station), or the one held in front of Parque Trianon, just across MASP on Avenida Paulista (just off the Trianon subway station), which is held on Sundays. Both have several stalls selling mainly things crafted in wood; though not extremely creative, they are bound to please tourists.

I would suggest a more ‘sophisticated’ arts and crafts market, whose exhibitors are young artists or designers. This is the fair called “Como Assim?”; it is held every Sunday from 10am to 10pm in the corridors of the Shopping Center 3, also located on Avenida Paulista (close to the Consolação station). Though you have a bit of everything, custom jewellery and clothes occupy a large part of the market, so most probably it will please girls, or boys wishing to purchase creative gifts to their loved ones. Specifically on the lower floor there is a stall with souvenirs (t-shirts, mugs, etc) using São Paulo as their theme.

For some reason, foreigners are usually drawn to objects made of Brazilian gemstones. You can find a wealth of these (from kitsch to really delicate items) on some shops near Praça da Liberdade. Though Liberdade is São Paulo’s ‘Chinatown’ so to speak, these shops are easy bets – and you can take the chance to taste a legitimate Japanese Brazilian dish. Try the shop Ho Kim Do, on Praça da Liberdade, 276, right on the corner with the main street in the area, Rua Galvão Bueno. Easy access with the subway – take the blue line to the Liberdade station.

 

 

 

Finally, if you have some energy left, walk down Rua Augusta to #2795 (just after it crosses Rua Oscar Freire) and visit the shop called Arte Tribal. Brazilian souvenirs, popular art, crafts from Brazilian indigenous tribes are available at the shop. To have an idea, access their website www.artetribal.com.br (available in English).



Bars in Vila Madalena - How to get there

If you are a foreigner in São Paulo, so surely someone has already told you Vila Madalena is the place to go if you want to go to a bar, have fun, meet people... in other words, to have a real night out.
Just to support this argument, check this search on Google Maps for the word "bar" in the neighborhood:

But you can also see on the map that the buzz is quite far from the nearest subway station, which is called Metrô Vila Madalena, but is actually in a neighboring area (indicated by the green arrow on the top of the image). Although you could say "I don't mind walking", you can see that most streets in the area are not straight. This was originally a very montainous area, so you will have lots of steep streets to go up and down. If you risk it on your way there, it will be impossible on your way back, after some drinks...

So I'll tell you another route to get to the same spot. You can check from the map above that the bars concentrate around some blocks of streets, between Rua Mourato Coelho, Rua Wisard, Rua Girassol and Rua Inacio Pereira da Rocha. If you get to these parts, you can simply walk around and find the bar or nightclub that suits you best, or where you spot more interesting people going in.

Focus on these two streets that lie to the east of the hub of bars: Rua Cardeal Arcoverde and Rua Teodoro Sampaio (to the right). On the map below you can see they are quite close to the location of bars, and, better still, only straight and plain streets connect them to the desired area. (Yes, the green area near the "A" is a cemetery). Av. Rebouças, that you see on the bottom, to the right, is also a good alternative for buses.

These are main streets served by many bus lines. Rua Cardeal Arcoverde runs from the top of the map to its bottom, so it will be perfect if you are coming from Centro, or from somewhere near Av. Paulista. Rua Teodoro Sampaio runs "up", so it will work for you if you are coming from some neighborhood in the south of the city of São Paulo. (From somewhere near Av. Brig. Faria Lima, for example).

To find which bus line might work for you, go to this website: www.sptrans.com.br

You will see this on the top of the page:

Click on LINHA DE ÔNIBUS (which means 'bus line' and this is what you want to know), then insert your address in the first slot, in front of DE/Endereço. Put an approximate number of your location. On the second part, complete like me: R. Cardeal Arcoverde N° 1600. Then click on "Buscar".

You will get some bus lines that will take you there, and their routes.


GOOD LUCK!!!



FOOD TRUCKS IN SÃO PAULO

A recent local regulation has established rules to allow for food trucks to sell food around the city. As the new ventures start to organize themselves and brand new trucks look for the best location in town, a pioneer idea has already taken shape in the format of a "Food Park".

BUTANTAN FOOD PARK is an otherwise unattractive space close to a busy hub of major thoroughfares, avenues, bridges and minor street. However, as a home to several food trucks and some stalls selling delicacies, it managed to become an almost pleasing setting, specially on a fine day, as, despite of a covered area with tables, most of its buzz takes place in the open.

Food vendors will take turns, so most likely when you come back after some time you will find different options to taste. In my visit last Saturday (June 6th) there were, among others, Argentine empanadas, Uruguayan sandwiches, Indian samosas, sweet and savory waffles, pork ribs, gourmet burguers, Argentine wines, ice creams, French pastries, churros, artisanal beers, apple pies, pasta, and the very Brazilian macaxeira.

The intention is not to offer cheap food, but rather items with some gourmet addition... most things ranged from 5 to 10 US dollars, but in the whole I believed they were worth the price.

All around the area there are communal wooden tables for you to share with other foodies. Avoid Sundays which are usually extremelly crowded. A Saturday afternoon would be a perfect time to visit.

Where?

R. Agostinho Cantu, 47 (in the neighborhood called Butantã)

Opening times: Mon-Wed 11am to 4pm/Thu-Sat 11am to 10pm/Sun 11am to 8pm

Within walking distance of the Butantã subway station (Yellow Line)

Shopping Streets in São Paulo

As I have mentioned before, I don't really appreciate malls... I think shopping outdoors is much more interesting. To help you out if you believe the same, I'm listing below some of the main shopping streets in São Paulo:

• Rua 25 de março - the main shopping street in Brazil. In November and December, no cars are allowed, as the streets are literally taken by the sheer number of avid shoppers. Estimates say that in this period of the year, more than 1 million people visit is shops every day. However, going at other times of the year, of an early morning, can be quite a fun experience, as you will find shops selling practically everything, but especially custom jewellery, costumes, decoration, fabrics, and household appliances. It is the right place if you are organizing a party.

• Rua Augusta - see a more detailed post about Rua Augusta here. From Av. Paulista towards the region called Jardins, there are mainly clothes stores, the occasional shoe store and snack bars; towards the city center, movie theaters, bars, shops selling vinyls and other vintage stuff. Great to hang around just browsing and sitting down for the occasional beer.

• Rua Teodoro Sampaio - three very clear sections: going up from Av. Faria Lima, up to the corner with R. Fradique Coutinho, there are shops selling popular clothes, but mainly shoes. From this point on, there are dozens of shops selling home furniture, and a good number selling mattresses. Going further up, beyond Praça Benedito Calixto, the street is the site for musicians! Several shops selling musical instruments sit side by side along both sidewalks. See map here: http://goo.gl/maps/OME1z

• Rua Santa Ifigênia - Electronics! In the heart of a dilapidated area in the city center, Rua Santa Ifigênia and its neighbors are home to virtually hundreds of shops selling everything from lighting, CD/DVD players, HD TV monitors, videogames, audio and sound equipment, computer and any IT accessories, AC adaptors, you name it. Prices are usually very good, but you must also check if products are legal, as some shops may sell smuggled goods. Always ask for a receipt. Also beware of pickpockets. This area is quite close to an area in town where crack users gather, so you are very likely to spot some heavy users around.

• Rua dos Pinheiros - Even though the neighborhood in itself is already served by a good number of restaurants, Rua dos Pinheiros gathers so many of them you would probably take about a week to taste them all... not to mention the cafés and sweet shops. There are Italian, Brazilian, Mexican, Japanese, Portuguese restaurants... Just walk around and feel the smell.

This map can give you an idea...

 

Shopping Malls in São Paulo

I certainly would not recommend a Shopping Mall if you want to experience the city, but I must admit they may come in handy in some occasions, particularly if you want a cheap no-hassle meal.
Among the 53 (and counting), these are some of the most centrally located malls in São Paulo:

Shopping Light - right in the heart of the city - www.shoppinglight.com.br

Shopping Pátio Higienópolis - in a very traditional and upscale neighborhood, though in a very central area - www.patiohigienopolis.com

Shopping West Plaza - large, doesn't have much character, but is easily accessible via innumerable bus lines and still within walking distance from the Barra Funda subway station - www.westplaza.com.br

Shopping Bourbon - one of the newest malls in the city; a little bit dark, but offers a good mix - www.bourbonshopping.com.br

Shopping Center 3 - small compared to the others in this list, but very well located. Ample choice of fast-food restaurants, and an extremely interesting 'designers market' held in its corridors on Sundays - www.shoppingcenter3.com.br

Shopping Patio Paulista - nice location, near several cultural centers and the Paraiso subway station - www.shoppingpaulista.com.br

Shopping Eldorado - large, very interesting variety of shops, cafés, restaurants. It also has a large supermarket inside its premises - www.shoppingeldorado.com.br

Shopping Iguatemi - the most sophisticated mall in the city, home to several international top brands - www.iguatemisp.com.br

See link below for map with locations:
https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zwEE05c03lno.k6bobxIUn9t0



...

Intercity/Interstate/International Bus Terminal

Rodoviária do Tietê

Train services are virtually nonexistent in Brazil, therefore traveling from city to city must be done by bus (if not by plane). Intercity bus services in Brazil are quite reliable and punctual. 

São Paulo has 3 intercity bus terminals: 

Terminal Rodoviário Jabaquara - connected with the Jabaquara subway station on the blue line - buses to Santos and the southern coast of the state of São Paulo.

Terminal Rodoviário Barra Funda - connected with the Barra Funda subway station on the red line - buses to the west of the state of São Paulo, Center-west region of Brazil, and Bolivia.

And the largest bus terminal in Brazil, most commonly known as "Rodoviária do Tietê": 

Terminal Rodoviário do Tietê - Connected to the Tietê subway station on the blue line, it serves 65 bus companies that operate 300 lines, heading to 1,033 cities in 21 of the Brazilian states, and going as far as 4 countries in South America (Argentina, Chile, Paraguay, and Uruguay). 

If you are going by car or by bus, the address is:

Av. Cruzeiro do Sul, 1800 
Santana - 02030-000
São Paulo 
subway station: Portuguesa-Tietê
Phone number: 11 3866 1100


The bus terminal is quite clean and organized, and offers a good choice of souvenir shops and eateries. Toilets are also ok (you must pay to use them). However, it is also very large. To avoid getting lost or losing time, visit it some day before your actual trip (for example, go there to buy your tickets), so you find your bearings and do not get exasperated on the day of your trip. And it is not too much to say to keep your belongings close to you at all times. 

For a list of the cities served by the buses, see here .

For a map of the terminal, click here.

Boarding gates at the underground level

Some bus companies sell tickets online... try it here:

http://rodoviariadotiete.net/

To conclude, one warning: check the calendar of Brazilian holidays and avoid at all costs to travel in the evening before a long holiday... the Rodoviária will be overwhelmingly crowded! Just do it if your humor is above average!

And have a nice trip!