Saturday, January 26, 2013

Taking the subway in São Paulo

The subway in São Paulo is called "Metrô". It is extremely clean and very safe; you will find no beggars or buskers inside it, nor booths selling food on the platforms, as is usual in some countries (though there are some in other floors). Trains are quite new and very well-kept.
However, it serves only a limited area of the city, it does not have many stations in which you can change from one line to another, an it can be extremely crowded (actually unbearable) in rush hours.



Logo indicating subway stations or buses that pass in front of one

As of January 2013, the ticket for one trip costs R$ 3,00 (you may change lines at will while inside the system). Tickets are only inserted in tolls to let you in, and are not necessary to let you out of stations. You may also use the "Bilhete Único" explained here.

For a map of the system, click here. But beware that the map shows not only the subway system, but also the interconnected train system.

Useful information: avoid at all costs a change at the Sé Station in the rush hour, especially if you are heading towards Corinthians-Itaquera or Jabaquara. Trains are extremely crowded and you will learn how sardines feel... not good ;(

Surprisingly, São Paulo's Metro has a quite reasonable page in English to help you understand the system. Check it out here: http://www.metro.sp.gov.br/en/your-trip/index.aspx
As a curiosity, the Yellow Line (Line 4) bears a different symbol because, unlike the other lines which are state-operated, it is operated by a private-owned company.

Sunday, January 13, 2013

TRANSPORT - Leaving the Airport

São Paulo's international airport is the Aeroporto de Guarulhos (a.k.a Cumbica - which is the name of the neighborhood where it is located); after a superficial revamping it received the funny name of GRU Airport. Be ready to face incredibly long lines at the customs, especially if your flight lands early in the morning, but try to keep your spirits up. 
After getting rid of the customs, reaching for your baggage and maybe a visit to the Free Shop, you’ll finally see yourself in the outside world, namely the airport lounge. Guarulhos is a city in the northeast of the Greater Sao Paulo area, some 30km from the center of São Paulo.
If you are not one of the lucky people who get to have someone to pick them up, these are your choices:
- bus - there is a regular bus line running from the Airport to the Tatuapé subway station (East Zone of São Paulo). Fare is R$ 4,05.
-special bus (a.k.a. Airport Service). Air-conditioned, comfortable buses at R$33,00 per person. See complete post with tips, destinations and timetables here.
- Taxis this would be the best choice for a foreigner, though of course much more expensive. However, if you are in a group of three people and will share the fare, you’ll pay approximately the same as for the bus, and be left right where you want. See complete post here.

If your place of stay is in the city center or south zone (more common as tourist addresses), your journey will take at least 40 minutes, if you are lucky and it’s not the rush hour anymore. Otherwise it could take you as long as 1h30 to finally be able to rest in your room.

SESCs - A wealth of cultural options


As an interesting, diversified, alternative and cheap cultural option in São Paulo, the SESCs are unbeatable. SESC stands for “Serviço Social do Comércio”; it is a non-profit institution connected with an association of businesspeople from the commerce and services sector. They have several units spread throughout the city, which can be referred to as cultural centers for an easy understanding, but are certainly much more than this.
Usually housed in large, ample and purpose-built edifices, SESC units usually offer a vast array of cultural options, from exhibitions to music gigs, plays and art classes, many of which are well “out of the box” and offered at very popular prices or even for free. Their musical programs are known for proposing unheard of reunions of musicians and unconventional gatherings of singers.

Sesc Pompeia
Most units also offer some kind of eatery, from cafeterias to kilo restaurants, having in common a concern for healthy and creative alternatives. Sports also have their (wide) space in most SESC units. Even though some activities (like the use of the swimming pools) is reserved to members (though it is not difficult to become a member, which you can do for a reasonable yearly fee), many activities are open to all. For example, every summer brings a project called Sesc Verão, in which several activities are proposed to stimulate physical activities and entertainment outdoors.

Sesc Pompeia dressed up for Carnival 2013 - a special event for children
Cinesesc always proposes alternative movie festivals, and their little and friendly café in the lobby is one of the cheapest in town.
I intend to publish some posts about some of their units to give you a more detailed view. Meanwhile if you want to check what is going on, here it is: www.sescsp.org.br (unfortunately the website is only in Portuguese). A random visit usually brings nice surprises, though. Good attempts would be Sesc Pompeia, Sesc Pinheiros, Sesc Belenzinho or Sesc Itaquera.