Souvenirs from São Paulo - Where to find

São Paulo is not a touristy city, so you will not come across a souvenir shop on every corner. Actually you may want to buy a souvenir after all, no matter how kitsch it might be, and not find anything. So I’ll give you some suggestions in case you want to make the effort to take something back home.

Two arts and crafts markets that are usually recommended to tourists are the ones that are held on Praça da República (held during the day on Fridays and Saturdays), which is easy to reach with the subway (Red and Yellow Lines, República station), or the one held in front of Parque Trianon, just across MASP on Avenida Paulista (just off the Trianon subway station), which is held on Sundays. Both have several stalls selling mainly things crafted in wood; though not extremely creative, they are bound to please tourists.

I would suggest a more ‘sophisticated’ arts and crafts market, whose exhibitors are young artists or designers. This is the fair called “Como Assim?”; it is held every Sunday from 10am to 10pm in the corridors of the Shopping Center 3, also located on Avenida Paulista (close to the Consolação station). Though you have a bit of everything, custom jewellery and clothes occupy a large part of the market, so most probably it will please girls, or boys wishing to purchase creative gifts to their loved ones. Specifically on the lower floor there is a stall with souvenirs (t-shirts, mugs, etc) using São Paulo as their theme.

For some reason, foreigners are usually drawn to objects made of Brazilian gemstones. You can find a wealth of these (from kitsch to really delicate items) on some shops near Praça da Liberdade. Though Liberdade is São Paulo’s ‘Chinatown’ so to speak, these shops are easy bets – and you can take the chance to taste a legitimate Japanese Brazilian dish. Try the shop Ho Kim Do, on Praça da Liberdade, 276, right on the corner with the main street in the area, Rua Galvão Bueno. Easy access with the subway – take the blue line to the Liberdade station.

 

 

 

Finally, if you have some energy left, walk down Rua Augusta to #2795 (just after it crosses Rua Oscar Freire) and visit the shop called Arte Tribal. Brazilian souvenirs, popular art, crafts from Brazilian indigenous tribes are available at the shop. To have an idea, access their website www.artetribal.com.br (available in English).



Shopping Malls in São Paulo

I certainly would not recommend a Shopping Mall if you want to experience the city, but I must admit they may come in handy in some occasions, particularly if you want a cheap no-hassle meal.
Among the 53 (and counting), these are some of the most centrally located malls in São Paulo:

Shopping Light - right in the heart of the city - www.shoppinglight.com.br

Shopping Pátio Higienópolis - in a very traditional and upscale neighborhood, though in a very central area - www.patiohigienopolis.com

Shopping West Plaza - large, doesn't have much character, but is easily accessible via innumerable bus lines and still within walking distance from the Barra Funda subway station - www.westplaza.com.br

Shopping Bourbon - one of the newest malls in the city; a little bit dark, but offers a good mix - www.bourbonshopping.com.br

Shopping Center 3 - small compared to the others in this list, but very well located. Ample choice of fast-food restaurants, and an extremely interesting 'designers market' held in its corridors on Sundays - www.shoppingcenter3.com.br

Shopping Patio Paulista - nice location, near several cultural centers and the Paraiso subway station - www.shoppingpaulista.com.br

Shopping Eldorado - large, very interesting variety of shops, cafés, restaurants. It also has a large supermarket inside its premises - www.shoppingeldorado.com.br

Shopping Iguatemi - the most sophisticated mall in the city, home to several international top brands - www.iguatemisp.com.br

See link below for map with locations:
https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zwEE05c03lno.k6bobxIUn9t0



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RUA AUGUSTA - Walking Along

RUA AUGUSTA – Downtown

Right next to the Consolação subway station, Avenida Paulista is crossed by Rua Augusta. Going all the way from the city center to the sophisticated (and snobbish) area of São Paulo called Jardins (“Gardens”), Rua Augusta has nothing in itself that could attract much attention; it is not wide nor beautiful. However, it offers several interesting options.

The half of Augusta that leads to the city center (signaled by the Banco Safra building on the corner) is called “Baixo Augusta” on its first blocks. This is probably the area where you will meet all the interesting, alternative and exotic types of São Paulo. A clearly gay-friendly area (the parallel Rua Frei Caneca and the shopping mall of the same name are commonly referred to as ‘Gay Caneca’), it is also full of intellectual types, tattooed girls, not to mention prostitutes and transvestites that can be seen at night.  If you have no money to spend on a club but want to have a night out, this is the place to go. Going down from Avenida Paulista, the first blocks are full of laid back bars in which people sit on plastic tables on almost every corner; going further down, you reach the area called Baixo Augusta, full of clubs. But actually most of the party takes place on the street… on Saturday night cars can barely move. At 4am the street has probably more people circulating than at 4pm…

These are some of the highlights:

·    At number 1611 is the side entrance to Shopping Center 3, a small mall which offers several fast food options, but more interestingly, an arts and crafts market on its corridors every Sunday. But these are not traditional/boring crafts, but quite modern and creative stuff.

·    A Mexican fast food called Tollocos is located at # 1524

·    A cool movie complex, Espaço Itau de Cinema, at Rua Augusta, 1475 is famous not only for the modern audience, but also for opening its doors for not-so-commercial flicks, such as European or arts movies.

·    After the film, why not go for a slice of pizza? The first place to sell pizza by the slice in São Paulo is nearby, at 1463; it is called “O Pedaço da Pizza”.

·    Cross the street and walk down some steps for a different option: an Indian fast food. Nice, varied and cheap food – approved by my Indian friend. Madhu, Rua Augusta, 1420.

·     At #1372 is a cool store housing several ‘boxes’ (literally) where designers may sell their objects, among which are glasses, costume jewellery, and clothes.

·     If you are into music and movies, and looking for something old or sold out, this might be a place to spend one or two hours… all kinds of Brazilian and imported CDs and DVDs on sale.

·     The modern, healthy-looking and attractive fast food at 1360 reminds me of “Pret a Manger”, where I used to eat in London… here it is called “Pic Nic”.

This should be enough to have you walking down some blocks further, and you will come across hair salons, bars, clubs, as well as one of the major comedy clubs in São Paulo… If you enjoy people watching, you will have tons of fun.

RUA AUGUSTA - Walking Along

RUA AUGUSTA – Southward

Right next to the Consolação subway station, Avenida Paulista is crossed by Rua Augusta. Going all the way from the city center to the sophisticated (and snobbish) area of São Paulo called Jardins (“Gardens”), Rua Augusta has nothing in itself that could attract much attention; it is not wide nor beautiful. However, it offers several interesting options.

The southbound half of Augusta (signaled by the Banco do Brasil building on the corner) is also called “lado Jardins”. Amid several clothes and shoes shops, and the kilo restaurants, the highlights on this stretch of the street are:

·  On the block between Avenida Paulista and Alameda Santos lies a group of buildings and shopping arcade collectively known as Conjunto Nacional.  On the ground floor, among some clothes shops, drugstores, candy stores and the like, lies the most beloved bookstore in São Paulo: Livraria Cultura. It has branches in other shopping malls, but it was born here and it has expanded its empire. Cultura has now five separate shops in the area, including one for geeks (with videogames and other geek paraphernalia), one for art books and a deliciously cozy megastore, with a nice café inside. It also holds a theater (Teatro Eva Herz) and a movie theather (Cine Cultura).

Apparently a regular street

·   Going down for one more block you will find a McDonald’s, a Habibs (local fast food restaurant which offers a good cost/benefit relation – and probably the cheapest ice cream in town, a scone for R$ 2,50), a Subway (near #1954) and a Starbucks (at # 1967, on the corner with Alameda Jau).

·  Just opposite, at number 2014 lies a shop selling funny and alternative T-shirts.

·  Rua Augusta, 2075 is home to Cinesesc, a movie theather holding unusual film festivals, providing a space for alternative, independent or classical movies, as well as flicks in languages other than English. The venue also boasts one of the finest and cheapest cafés in this area. You can drop by just to have a cup of coffee and you will not regret it.

·  Two branches of Escola São Paulo, at 2074 and 2113. Bearing the slogan “Creative Economy”, the school offers free courses of design, photography, fashion, cinema and the like.

·  From this point on, Rua Augusta becomes a reference point for the sophisticated area called Jardins. Most of the perpendicular streets bring top-notch shops, restaurants and bars, especially Alameda Lorena and Oscar Freire, which is home to several luxury brands, Brazilian or international, which hold here snobbish shops and concept stores.

·  Galeria Ouro Fino, a shopping arcade at number 2690, is famous for the alternative shops, catering for those interested in alternative fashion, and those looking for cool and creative gifts.

AVENIDA PAULISTA - Supermarkets

One of the first things I look for in a new city is a supermarket. This may come in handy for any unexpected necessity, and for my customary daily supply of mineral water – I refuse to pay the amount hotels charge for a small bottle, and I do drink lots of water during a day.

If you are staying or hanging around Av. Paulista you have at least two choices of supermarkets to count on:

EXTRA SUPERMERCADOS – Av. Brigadeiro Luis Antonio, 2013. One block from Av. Paulista, on the even-numbered sidewalk. (www.extra.com.br)

A large market with all ranges of products and reasonable prices. Good choice of fruit, if you care to taste some local specimens Also nice for foreigners who like to buy cigarette packages, which are apparently much cheaper in Brazil – in this case you must ask for the cashier, for the cigarettes are visible on a glass display at the entrance, but must be asked for and brought to the cashier by one of the market’s employees. Order (or write on a piece of paper) “(number of packages wanted) pacote(s) de (cigarette brand you desire)”.

PÃO DE AÇÚCAR – Alameda Santos, 2071. One block from Av. Paulista, right behind Conjunto Nacional (odd-numbered sidewalk). (www.paodeacucar.com.br)

Unfortunately this is a small shop of this nice supermarket chain, and as a consequence of the lack of space, the shop is somewhat crammed and confused. If you care to walk a little longer, you’ll find another Pão de Açúcar on r. Pamplona, 816

This supermarket will not have huge supplies of anything, and prices are not the cheapest in town, but they do offer variety and uncommon things. Lots of imported, organic, or  homemade products, different brands, typical Brazilian brands, etc. Good for foreigners who would like to take home some Brazilian coffee, but to have more choices for their pick. Also Brazilian chocolates with local fruits such as cupuaçu, take-away food and sandwiches, fresh juices, and always new and interesting items.

AVENIDA PAULISTA - Walking Along 2

Now let’s take the left-hand sidewalk. Still on r. Bernardino de Campos, at the 98, try one of the delicious juices of Bolados Sucos (the menu in this link is in English) – go for some typical tropical fruit.

This juice shop is the corner shop of a gallery that goes through the block and reaches the street behind. In case you’re missing international chains, cross this gallery and you’ll find Subway and Starbucks on the back street.

But going on to Av. Paulista, at number 37 is Casa das Rosas (House of the Roses), a cultural center with daily activities and exhibitions. Pocket shows, poetry, literature… get inside its beautiful garden and check what is on. If nothing grabs your interest, you may try the charming café. The setting somehow reminds me of the gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris.

 The garden of Casa das Rosas

 The house itself

The café at the back - not visible from the street.

Some steps ahead, at number 149 you’ll find another cultural center, Itaú Cultural. Maintained by a huge banking institution, the site is home to more avant-garde exhibitions, usually involving new technologies, breakthrough artists, video installations, etc. Music and other performances are usually free, people just have to queue for tickets one hour before the appointed time.  The second floor is a library and the ground floor is home to a nice café.

Centro Cultural Itaú - exhibitions, library, performances, and a café.



AVENIDA PAULISTA - Walking Along

Here we are back to Av. Paulista… though we intend to explore other areas, Paulista can’t be beaten as the place to go for tourists to feel the atmosphere of the city. On weekdays, busy people hurrying to cross the streets and having lunch in 15min, men in their suits and women in high heels; on weekends, a completely different picture, the large avenue becomes a promenade where people walk leisurely heading to its movie theaters, cultural attractions, or a relaxing cup of coffee. Our proposal is to walk along the avenue and pinpoint some interesting features you may miss.

Starting from the beginning, at the Paraíso subway station (which is actually on r. Bernardino de Campos, before the beginning of Paulista), walk towards Paulista on the right-hand sidewalk and you’ll find Pça Oswaldo Cruz, which marks the very beginning of Paulista. On number 26 is Ponto Chic, a traditional sandwich bar with a 60’s feel, famous for the Bauru ao Ponto Chic, sandwich with roast beef, tomatoes and a gooey abundant mix of melted cheeses (R$ 17,90). Or go for my favorite, Seleto, which adds ham to that mix (R$ 22,10). To help it go down, ask for the lemonade; beside the large cold glass containing it they usually give you a small aluminum bucket of almost as much juice, all the precious liquid that was left in their mixer.

Make sure you order the sandwich; there is a version served as a dish, with bread aside.

It's more expensive and not the real deal.

Some steps ahead, now on r. 13 de Maio, lies the Shopping Pátio Paulista. The name is not written in large letters on its façade, but rather in small letters on a large Big Ben-like clock over the main doors. Though I talked about food courts in shopping malls here I don’t really believe a mall should be of much interest for tourists, but I also admit that many times while traveling I headed to one, especially when all I wanted was fast food and clean toilets. After a wide renovation, this mall offers a wide range of shops and fast food restaurants, and probably a dozen cafés (though I feel sitting on a table in the corridor of a mall takes away much of the charm of a café). Anyway, there are two things I recommend here. As you enter, turn left and take the escalators going down. Look for these:

- Freddo – a kiosk of the Argentine ice cream parlor. Ok, it’s Argentine, but their milk caramel (doce de leite) options are unsurpassable. A must, simply delicious. (R$ 8,50 for one scoop).

- Brigaderia – now for the local goodies… As I explained here, if you want a (very sweet) taste of local treats, brigadeiros are your article. Here you’ll find them with several different toppings, in extremely pretty and well-done wrappings.

IMPORTANT AND USEFUL INFO: On the same floor of the mall there is a Currency Exchange Shop, named Cotação Câmbio (câmbio being 'exchange' in Portuguese). Contact phone: 3285-4845; www.cotacao.com.br

 

Eating in SP- Snacks

SALGADOS

A variety of salgados

Salgados, meaning “savory thing”, is a general term to refer to a wide range of items Brazilians eat when in a hurry, or when not willing to spend money on a proper meal. Most are stuffed pastries filled with things like ham and cheese, cream cheese, chicken, sausages, or other creative things. They are usually grab-and-go items, but in some places you may sit down to taste them, together with some juice, soda, or even beer.

I’ll introduce you to some of these:

COXINHA

A mouth-watering coxinha

The translation for coxinha would be ‘chicken drumstick’. They consist of chicken bits, seasoned with onion and herbs, coated by a layer of mashed potatoes; but as they are deep fried, be careful where you eat them, otherwise you might get something too oily. But in general they are quite tasty. A famous spot for coxinhas is Frangó, a bar which is completely off the beaten track for tourists, but well worth the visit, for their food is quite typical, they have a vast range of beer brands (Brazilian and international), and the location is quite picturesque. If you will not have the chance to see small Brazilian towns, this is the closest you can get from their feel inside São Paulo.

EMPADA

Crunchy and tasty empadas



Empadas are tasty small pielike salgados, consisting of a buttery pastry filled with either shredded chicken or palm tree core, usually well-seasoned with added tomato sauce to give it some color. Though you may find large ones, the typical empada can be eaten in three or four bites. It must look somewhat glossy and golden. Prices will range from R$ 2,00 to 5,00. Other choices of filling include cod or even shrimps.

Recently some specialized shops have come up, so if you come across one of them (named Rancho da Empada, Casa da Empada, Empadaria da Vovó, Empada Caipira, etc) you might go crazy and venture yourself in dozens of fillings like meat and cheddar cheese, pumpkin and dry meat, sweetcorn, or even sample sweet ones, filled with chocolate, banana, etc etc.

-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-

Most salgados can be found at your local padaria; the food chain Viena will usually have them in miniature sizes, in case you want to experiment a little. They have a kiosk right at the entrance of Conjunto Nacional (Av. Paulista, 2073), and a restaurant at the back, on the corner of R. Augusta and Alameda Santos.



Eating in SP - Cheap & Good

Ragazzo

You've probably heard, or soon will discover, that eating in Brazil has become quite expensive. Ok, maybe you have money to splash, so check where to go on official tourism guides. My intention here is to give you some options if you only intend to eat honest food at reasonable prices.
Recently I was amazed to discover Ragazzo, a fast food chain that offers a wide range of choices at incredible prices for São Paulo. Even regular fast food restaurants here will be quite expensive; it's impossible to spend less than US$ 10. Average spending would be around US$15 and above.
To begin with, though they may be called a 'fast food restaurant', you sit down and order your food from waiters, and pay the bill as you leave. Italian food prevails in their menu (pasta, pizzas), but also include dishes with grilled meat, sandwiches, salgados (see post here), salads (you pick seven ingredients from a list; the small one costs about US$3), soup (a bowl for less than US$2), juices and dessert. Nothing is exceptional, but good and surely clean. And quite cheap. See their complete menu here. Though everything is in Portuguese, the menu is plenty of photos that will surely help you out when selecting your choices.
When walking around Avenida Paulista, try this one:
Ragazzo - Alameda Santos, 2209, some steps from the corner with Rua Augusta (near Conjunto Nacional).
Subway station: Consolação
Buses: any bus running along Avenida Paulista, get off in front of Conjunto Nacional (southward) or near Rua Frei Caneca (westward).

AVENIDA PAULISTA - MASP

Travel guides will surely tell you this is the most important museum in São Paulo, etc. etc. If you're not that into the arts, it is still worth a visit to the area:

- See the cutting-edge architecture of the museum, supported by columns over a 74-meter freestanding space. This area is famous as a location for every kind of protests and public demonstrations.

- On Sundays, an antiques market is held under the museum.

- If you are not interested in the collection, you may check if the auditorium is holding some musical performance, they are usually free.

- You may also try UNI, a restaurant located in the basement of the museum (entrance through stairs leading underground, same way to the auditorium). Fixed price buffet: R$ 32,30 (Mon to Sat) and R$ 35,00 (Sundays).

- Right behind the museum, on R. Carlos Comenale, 97, you’ll find one of the noisiest bars in town, Bar Opção. If you want to see and mingle with locals, it’s a nice suggestion. Or maybe you just want to see how noisy a bar can get around here…

- Right across the street, there’s a nice park, called Parque Trianon (just don’t venture inside after dark). On the sidewalk, on Sundays, a crafts market is held.

SUBWAY STATION - Trianon, on the Green Line
or take any bus running along Avenida Paulista, and get off right in front of Parque Trianon (southward buses) or on the block after the museum (westward buses).

AVENIDA PAULISTA

Avenida Paulista is one of the main arteries of the city, but more than that, it is the beaten track for tourists in SP for it gathers several interesting places. We’ll make this a special category so we can tell you about the not-so-famous sites that won’t be on the guides, but those that will make your visit interesting and colorful.