Thursday, November 28, 2013

Shopping Streets in São Paulo

As I have mentioned before, I don't really appreciate malls... I think shopping outdoors is much more interesting. To help you out if you believe the same, I'm listing below some of the main shopping streets in São Paulo:

  • Rua 25 de março - the main shopping street in Brazil. In November and December, no cars are allowed, as the streets are literally taken by the sheer number of avid shoppers. Estimates say that in this period of the year, more than 1 million people visit is shops every day. However, going at other times of the year, of an early morning, can be quite a fun experience, as you will find shops selling practically everything, but especially custom jewellery, costumes, decoration, fabrics, and household appliances. It is the right place if you are organizing a party.

  • Rua Augusta - see a more detailed post about Rua Augusta here. From Av. Paulista towards the region called Jardins, there are mainly clothes stores, the occasional shoe store and snack bars; towards the city center, movie theaters, bars, shops selling vinyls and other vintage stuff. Great to hang around just browsing and sitting down for the occasional beer.

  • Rua Teodoro Sampaio - three very clear sections: going up from Av. Faria Lima, up to the corner with R. Fradique Coutinho, there are shops selling popular clothes, but mainly shoes. From this point on, there are dozens of shops selling home furniture, and a good number selling mattresses. Going further up, beyond Praça Benedito Calixto, the street is the site for musicians! Several shops selling musical instruments sit side by side along both sidewalks. See map here: http://goo.gl/maps/OME1z

  • Rua Santa Ifigênia - Electronics! In the heart of a dilapidated area in the city center, Rua Santa Ifigênia and its neighbors are home to virtually hundreds of shops selling everything from lighting, CD/DVD players, HD TV monitors, videogames, audio and sound equipment, computer and any IT accessories, AC adaptors, you name it. Prices are usually very good, but you must also check if products are legal, as some shops may sell smuggled goods. Always ask for a receipt. Also beware of pickpockets. This area is quite close to an area in town where crack users gather, so you are very likely to spot some heavy users around.

  • Rua dos Pinheiros - Even though the neighborhood in itself is already served by a good number of restaurants, Rua dos Pinheiros gathers so many of them you would probably take about a week to taste them all... not to mention the cafés and sweet shops. There are Italian, Brazilian, Mexican, Japanese, Portuguese restaurants... Just walk around and feel the smell.

This map can give you an idea...
 







Sunday, October 27, 2013

Shopping Malls in São Paulo

I certainly would not recommend a Shopping Mall if you want to experience the city, but I must admit they may come in handy in some occasions, particularly if you want a cheap no-hassle meal.
Among the 53 (and counting), these are some of the most centrally located malls in São Paulo:

Shopping Light - right in the heart of the city - www.shoppinglight.com.br

Shopping Pátio Higienópolis - in a very traditional and upscale neighborhood, though in a very central area - www.patiohigienopolis.com

Shopping West Plaza - large, doesn't have much character, but is easily accessible via innumerable bus lines and still within walking distance from the Barra Funda subway station - www.westplaza.com.br

Shopping Bourbon - one of the newest malls in the city; a little bit dark, but offers a good mix - www.bourbonshopping.com.br

Shopping Center 3 - small compared to the others in this list, but very well located. Ample choice of fast-food restaurants, and an extremely interesting 'designers market' held in its corridors on Sundays - www.shoppingcenter3.com.br

Shopping Patio Paulista - nice location, near several cultural centers and the Paraiso subway station - www.shoppingpaulista.com.br

Shopping Eldorado - large, very interesting variety of shops, cafés, restaurants. It also has a large supermarket inside its premises - www.shoppingeldorado.com.br

Shopping Iguatemi - the most sophisticated mall in the city, home to several international top brands - www.iguatemisp.com.br

See link below for map with locations:
https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zwEE05c03lno.k6bobxIUn9t0



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Sunday, March 10, 2013

Intercity/Interstate/International Bus Terminal

Rodoviária do Tietê

Train services are virtually nonexistent in Brazil, therefore traveling from city to city must be done by bus (if not by plane). Intercity bus services in Brazil are quite reliable and punctual. 


São Paulo has 3 intercity bus terminals: 


Terminal Rodoviário Jabaquara - connected with the Jabaquara subway station on the blue line - buses to Santos and the southern coast of the state of São Paulo.



Terminal Rodoviário Barra Funda - connected with the Barra Funda subway station on the red line - buses to the west of the state of São Paulo, Center-west region of Brazil, and Bolivia.

And the largest bus terminal in Brazil, 
most commonly known as "Rodoviária do Tietê": 

Terminal Rodoviário do Tietê - Connected to the Tietê subway station on the blue line, it serves 65 bus companies that operate 300 lines, heading to 1,033 cities in 21 of the Brazilian states, and going as far as 4 countries in South America (Argentina, Chile, Paraguay, and Uruguay). 



If you are going by car or by bus, the address is:


Av. Cruzeiro do Sul, 1800 

Santana - 02030-000
São Paulo 
subway station: Portuguesa-Tietê
Phone number: 11 3866 1100


The bus terminal is quite clean and organized, and offers a good choice of souvenir shops and eateries. Toilets are also ok (you must pay to use them). However, it is also very large. To avoid getting lost or losing time, visit it some day before your actual trip (for example, go there to buy your tickets), so you find your bearings and do not get exasperated on the day of your trip. And it is not too much to say to keep your belongings close to you at all times. 

For a list of the cities served by the buses, see here .


For a map of the terminal, click here.



Boarding gates at the underground level

Some bus companies sell tickets online... try it here:

To conclude, one warning: check the calendar of Brazilian holidays and avoid at all costs to travel in the evening before a long holiday... the Rodoviária will be overwhelmingly crowded! Just do it if your humor is above average!

And have a nice trip!



Sunday, February 24, 2013

RUA AUGUSTA - Walking Along

RUA AUGUSTA – Downtown
Right next to the Consolação subway station, Avenida Paulista is crossed by Rua Augusta. Going all the way from the city center to the sophisticated (and snobbish) area of São Paulo called Jardins (“Gardens”), Rua Augusta has nothing in itself that could attract much attention; it is not wide nor beautiful. However, it offers several interesting options.
The half of Augusta that leads to the city center (signaled by the Banco Safra building on the corner) is called “Baixo Augusta” on its first blocks. This is probably the area where you will meet all the interesting, alternative and exotic types of São Paulo. A clearly gay-friendly area (the parallel Rua Frei Caneca and the shopping mall of the same name are commonly referred to as ‘Gay Caneca’), it is also full of intellectual types, tattooed girls, not to mention prostitutes and transvestites that can be seen at night.  If you have no money to spend on a club but want to have a night out, this is the place to go. Going down from Avenida Paulista, the first blocks are full of laid back bars in which people sit on plastic tables on almost every corner; going further down, you reach the area called Baixo Augusta, full of clubs. But actually most of the party takes place on the street… on Saturday night cars can barely move. At 4am the street has probably more people circulating than at 4pm…


These are some of the highlights:
·    At number 1611 is the side entrance to Shopping Center 3, a small mall which offers several fast food options, but more interestingly, an arts and crafts market on its corridors every Sunday. But these are not traditional/boring crafts, but quite modern and creative stuff.
·    A Mexican fast food called Tollocos is located at # 1524
·    A cool movie complex, Espaço Itau de Cinema, at Rua Augusta, 1475 is famous not only for the modern audience, but also for opening its doors for not-so-commercial flicks, such as European or arts movies.
·    After the film, why not go for a slice of pizza? The first place to sell pizza by the slice in São Paulo is nearby, at 1463; it is called “O Pedaço da Pizza”.
·    Cross the street and walk down some steps for a different option: an Indian fast food. Nice, varied and cheap food – approved by my Indian friend. Madhu, Rua Augusta, 1420.
·     At #1372 is a cool store housing several ‘boxes’ (literally) where designers may sell their objects, among which are glasses, costume jewellery, and clothes.
·     If you are into music and movies, and looking for something old or sold out, this might be a place to spend one or two hours… all kinds of Brazilian and imported CDs and DVDs on sale.
·     The modern, healthy-looking and attractive fast food at 1360 reminds me of “Pret a Manger”, where I used to eat in London… here it is called “Pic Nic”.

This should be enough to have you walking down some blocks further, and you will come across hair salons, bars, clubs, as well as one of the major comedy clubs in São Paulo… If you enjoy people watching, you will have tons of fun.

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

RUA AUGUSTA - Walking Along

RUA AUGUSTA – Southward
Right next to the Consolação subway station, Avenida Paulista is crossed by Rua Augusta. Going all the way from the city center to the sophisticated (and snobbish) area of São Paulo called Jardins (“Gardens”), Rua Augusta has nothing in itself that could attract much attention; it is not wide nor beautiful. However, it offers several interesting options.
The southbound half of Augusta (signaled by the Banco do Brasil building on the corner) is also called “lado Jardins”. Amid several clothes and shoes shops, and the kilo restaurants, the highlights on this stretch of the street are:
·  On the block between Avenida Paulista and Alameda Santos lies a group of buildings and shopping arcade collectively known as Conjunto Nacional.  On the ground floor, among some clothes shops, drugstores, candy stores and the like, lies the most beloved bookstore in São Paulo: Livraria Cultura. It has branches in other shopping malls, but it was born here and it has expanded its empire. Cultura has now five separate shops in the area, including one for geeks (with videogames and other geek paraphernalia), one for art books and a deliciously cozy megastore, with a nice café inside. It also holds a theater (Teatro Eva Herz) and a movie theather (Cine Cultura).

Apparently a regular street

·   Going down for one more block you will find a McDonald’s, a Habibs (local fast food restaurant which offers a good cost/benefit relation – and probably the cheapest ice cream in town, a scone for R$ 2,50), a Subway (near #1954) and a Starbucks (at # 1967, on the corner with Alameda Jau).
·  Just opposite, at number 2014 lies a shop selling funny and alternative T-shirts.
·  Rua Augusta, 2075 is home to Cinesesc, a movie theather holding unusual film festivals, providing a space for alternative, independent or classical movies, as well as flicks in languages other than English. The venue also boasts one of the finest and cheapest cafés in this area. You can drop by just to have a cup of coffee and you will not regret it.
·  Two branches of Escola São Paulo, at 2074 and 2113. Bearing the slogan “Creative Economy”, the school offers free courses of design, photography, fashion, cinema and the like.
·  From this point on, Rua Augusta becomes a reference point for the sophisticated area called Jardins. Most of the perpendicular streets bring top-notch shops, restaurants and bars, especially Alameda Lorena and Oscar Freire, which is home to several luxury brands, Brazilian or international, which hold here snobbish shops and concept stores.
·  Galeria Ouro Fino, a shopping arcade at number 2690, is famous for the alternative shops, catering for those interested in alternative fashion, and those looking for cool and creative gifts.

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Taking the subway in São Paulo

The subway in São Paulo is called "Metrô". It is extremely clean and very safe; you will find no beggars or buskers inside it, nor booths selling food on the platforms, as is usual in some countries (though there are some in other floors). Trains are quite new and very well-kept.
However, it serves only a limited area of the city, it does not have many stations in which you can change from one line to another, an it can be extremely crowded (actually unbearable) in rush hours.



Logo indicating subway stations or buses that pass in front of one

As of January 2013, the ticket for one trip costs R$ 3,00 (you may change lines at will while inside the system). Tickets are only inserted in tolls to let you in, and are not necessary to let you out of stations. You may also use the "Bilhete Único" explained here.

For a map of the system, click here. But beware that the map shows not only the subway system, but also the interconnected train system.

Useful information: avoid at all costs a change at the Sé Station in the rush hour, especially if you are heading towards Corinthians-Itaquera or Jabaquara. Trains are extremely crowded and you will learn how sardines feel... not good ;(

Surprisingly, São Paulo's Metro has a quite reasonable page in English to help you understand the system. Check it out here: http://www.metro.sp.gov.br/en/your-trip/index.aspx
As a curiosity, the Yellow Line (Line 4) bears a different symbol because, unlike the other lines which are state-operated, it is operated by a private-owned company.

Sunday, January 13, 2013

TRANSPORT - Leaving the Airport

São Paulo's international airport is the Aeroporto de Guarulhos (a.k.a Cumbica - which is the name of the neighborhood where it is located); after a superficial revamping it received the funny name of GRU Airport. Be ready to face incredibly long lines at the customs, especially if your flight lands early in the morning, but try to keep your spirits up. 
After getting rid of the customs, reaching for your baggage and maybe a visit to the Free Shop, you’ll finally see yourself in the outside world, namely the airport lounge. Guarulhos is a city in the northeast of the Greater Sao Paulo area, some 30km from the center of São Paulo.
If you are not one of the lucky people who get to have someone to pick them up, these are your choices:
- bus - there is a regular bus line running from the Airport to the Tatuapé subway station (East Zone of São Paulo). Fare is R$ 4,05.
-special bus (a.k.a. Airport Service). Air-conditioned, comfortable buses at R$33,00 per person. See complete post with tips, destinations and timetables here.
- Taxis this would be the best choice for a foreigner, though of course much more expensive. However, if you are in a group of three people and will share the fare, you’ll pay approximately the same as for the bus, and be left right where you want. See complete post here.

If your place of stay is in the city center or south zone (more common as tourist addresses), your journey will take at least 40 minutes, if you are lucky and it’s not the rush hour anymore. Otherwise it could take you as long as 1h30 to finally be able to rest in your room.

SESCs - A wealth of cultural options


As an interesting, diversified, alternative and cheap cultural option in São Paulo, the SESCs are unbeatable. SESC stands for “Serviço Social do Comércio”; it is a non-profit institution connected with an association of businesspeople from the commerce and services sector. They have several units spread throughout the city, which can be referred to as cultural centers for an easy understanding, but are certainly much more than this.
Usually housed in large, ample and purpose-built edifices, SESC units usually offer a vast array of cultural options, from exhibitions to music gigs, plays and art classes, many of which are well “out of the box” and offered at very popular prices or even for free. Their musical programs are known for proposing unheard of reunions of musicians and unconventional gatherings of singers.

Sesc Pompeia
Most units also offer some kind of eatery, from cafeterias to kilo restaurants, having in common a concern for healthy and creative alternatives. Sports also have their (wide) space in most SESC units. Even though some activities (like the use of the swimming pools) is reserved to members (though it is not difficult to become a member, which you can do for a reasonable yearly fee), many activities are open to all. For example, every summer brings a project called Sesc Verão, in which several activities are proposed to stimulate physical activities and entertainment outdoors.

Sesc Pompeia dressed up for Carnival 2013 - a special event for children
Cinesesc always proposes alternative movie festivals, and their little and friendly café in the lobby is one of the cheapest in town.
I intend to publish some posts about some of their units to give you a more detailed view. Meanwhile if you want to check what is going on, here it is: www.sescsp.org.br (unfortunately the website is only in Portuguese). A random visit usually brings nice surprises, though. Good attempts would be Sesc Pompeia, Sesc Pinheiros, Sesc Belenzinho or Sesc Itaquera.